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Raider temple, where strangler figs grow through the ancient ruins. Their tangled roots swallow the stones, which are cast aside like a forgotten game of jacks. The site is eerily beautiful, suggesting how the Angkor temple complex looked before conservation, but it’s hard to take in through the frenzy of bucket-list tourists. We have Banteay Srei — nicknamed the women’s temple for its ornate carvings of female deities — to ourselves for 15 minutes. Then a tour bus arrives and 30 Chinese tourists line up by a crumbling stupa, waiting their turn to grab the same photo. When my wife pulls me around the side of the pink-hued temple so we can lose the crowds, we.

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