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I dig through my backpack for our first-aid supplies, my wife sits on the bed and says, “That was weird.” Over the last three weeks of travel through Thailand and Laos, we’ve grown used to insisting on a room with one bed. We never expected that we’d have to do that at a gay hotel, or that the gay-appearing, gay-acting desk clerk would give us the same confused runaround as everyone else in Southeast Asia. We shrug it off and walk to the old market area for dinner. Down a pedestrian alleyway that’s parallel to Pub Street, a touristy strip lined with backpacker bars, there’s a wine bar that serves French-Cambodian cuisine. We order cheese and a bottle of wine.

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