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Knew the secret of the honeysuckle flowers. I hire a Snapp, the Iranian version of an Uber, to take me to Abdul Azim Shrine, where my grandfather is buried. A mature woman drives the car. This is the first time I have a female driver in Tehran. She is wearing a light hijab, most of her hair peeking out from beneath her cherry red shawl. I notice her painted, curved nails as she touches her mobile screen, which is facing her on a stand. She knows the roads well and uses the Waze App to avoid Tehran’s heavy traffic. It is so entertaining to observe the app’s voice speaking the long-forgotten words in formal Farsi. We descend from the high mountains of Alborz a.

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