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Wander along the riverbed, picking out faded Shiva carvings in the dappled sunlight. The centuries-old carvings are so weathered, they almost disappear into the rock. The moss that shades the figures adds to the sense of charming disrepair. At the main Angkor complex, different countries are sponsoring conservation efforts; their flags adorn the ancient temples in celebration of international partnerships. The practice has roots in colonialism, when Cambodia was part of French Indochina, but even with hefty admission fees, Cambodia can’t afford the restorations without international assistance. The river isn’t part of the conservation program, and poacherssa.

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