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Drive to Rey prairie, where the cemetery is located. As we get close, the tar-filled, compressed buildings of Tehran give way to vegetable farms. The young workers shade their faces with straw hats as they pluck mint leaves or uproot basil. Scattered Elm and Poplar trees stand at the corners, remnants of crowded rows of trees that flanked the farms. The hymns from the minarets of the Abdul Azim shrine are music to my ears. It is Friday and soon there will be noon prayers there. I enter from the eastern gate and rush to get to the Parrot Garden, where my grandfather is buried. Inside the chambers, the shrine keepers are spreading the fine Persian carpets thes.
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